When I Die, Dublin Will Be Written in My Heart

While living in Dublin, I have regularly commuted daily over the River Liffey. During this commute, I have been taking notice of a bridge that was unlike any other in design. As I walked home from school last Tuesday, I decided to cross the River Liffey by way of that particular bridge. It is made from white cast iron, with three archways to cross under, and steps leading up to and down from the base of the bridge. While crossing, I noticed that the archways were covered in locks that had names and dates written on them.

The bridge is the Wellington Bridge, but is more commonly referred to as the Ha’penny Bridge. It is called this because the toll to cross was a ha’penny. It was built in 1816, and was commissioned by William Walsh, a Liffey ferry owner. Turnstiles were placed at either end of the bridge when the toll was still collected, but have since been removed. It was the first pedestrian bridge over the Liffey. It is also often used as a symbol of Dublin.

The part of the Ha’penny Bridge that intrigued me the most was the locks on the arches. Upon further investigation, I learned that these are called love locks. They started appearing in Europe in the early 2000’s, and are placed in random locations in many major cities. They are often attached to a gates, fences, and bridges by sweethearts to symbolize their everlasting love.

Upon learning about these locks, I knew it would be the best way to commemorate my time in Dublin. A few days after my initial crossing of the bridge, I decided to go put a lock on the Ha’penny Bridge. I went to the store, got a lock, and wrote TU Dublin 2013 on it. I then took it to the bridge, and placed the lock on the middle arch. I then threw the key in the River Liffey, as per tradition with the love padlocks.

I felt a rush of exhilaration when I was putting the lock on the bridge. While it is legal, the government cuts off many locks annually. Dublin has quickly become a place that I have fallen in love with. When I placed the lock on Ha’penny Bridge, I was locking my heart to the city forever. I hope that one-day, if I have to opportunity to return, my lock will still on the bridge. To me, the placing of the lock represents a bond that I will constantly share with this city. It is rare that one finds a foreign city where they feel completely at home, and for me, Dublin is that city. James Joyce best puts my feelings into perspective when he says “When I die Dublin will be written in my heart.” By leaving a lock here, I have also left a piece of my heart.

La Mer

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I have always had a curious and, to put it plainly, odd relationship with large bodies of water. I loathe to be in them – my imagination runs wild and places Lovecraftian monstrosities just below the surface. I do not enjoy swimming at beaches, and mostly restrict my interaction with shore-water to whatever tendrils of liquid that make their way to my chair, momentarily distracting me from whatever weather-worn book I am reading.

As I stroll down the length of the walls that make up Dún Laoghaire’s harbor, I reflect on the juxtaposition that is my enjoyment of ocean-going vessels. I thoroughly enjoy riding on ships and boats, whether they’re river-running fishing tins or ocean-spanning cruise liners. One of my earliest hobbies was collecting miniature ships – my favorites were the majestic ships of the line from the 17th and 18th centuries, sails unfurled in imaginary winds. I’m sure they’re in a closet somewhere now, collecting dust.

I turn to look at the boats bobbing in the soft currents of the inner harbor. Some 200 years earlier, two ships that had departed from Dublin had smashed into the rocks near here. The British, still in control of Ireland at that time, realized the need for a permanent and protected harbor that could service Dublin. That plan developed into the harbor my feet carry me across now, old stone crunching beneath my heel. Plans had already existed at the time to create a harbor to service Dubin, but the loss of the Prince of Wales and the Rochdale, along with 400 souls between them, had put expediency into the lagging efforts.

Along with the increased interest from the English came other changes as well. Dún Laoghaire is as Irish a name as one could think for a little town near the ocean. The English, however, decided that Dún Laoghaire needed a proper and suitably English name, and so the town was christened ‘Kingstown’ when King Charles IV visited the new harbor in 1821.

Of course, when the Irish rebelled and won their independence from the English, they quickly began dismantling the signs and fixtures of their colonial rule, and the names of streets and towns were soon switched from their English designations to their original Irish names, and so Dún Laoghaire (or Dunleary) existed again.

I stop at the end of the pier, the lighthouse to my right and the harbor laid out in front of me. There are no more great sailing ships, unfortunately – the harbour is now home to a posh yacht club, and the two piers encompass the anchored boats like embracing arms. Looking down into the murky water, my minds eye sees something slither just under the surface. I shudder, and some deep level of my subconscious notes that I’ll want fish and chips for dinner tonight as some sort of symbolic gesture of defiance. Regardless, I begin my walk back, the sun warm on my back and my lungs full of salty air.

 

Podological Memory

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Cities, it seems, grow from one of two methods. The first is by a system of organized construction and planned development – regimented blocks segmented by streets made parallel by a graphing compass and pencil. These kind of cities have either grown recently with the advent of improved technology, or were founded by ancient civilizations that enjoyed order in their settlements.

The other kind of city is the exact opposite: these are the cities that grew from towns and villages, where new neighborhoods and sections of streets have developed organically and freely. In these places it is the chaos of natural and unplanned growth over time that has decided the current shape of the once-tiny settlements.

Dublin is very much the latter. Starting as a Viking city in the 9th century, it has endured and expanded after multiple attempts by nature to seemingly end the city’s existence – plagues in the 14th and 17th centuries and attacks by native Irish clans have the population of Dublin in tatters, only to see it spring back and keep growing.

Dublin reminds me of what is essentially my hometown of Doylestown (I say ‘essentially’ due to the fact that I didn’t grow up there, but I’ve spent more than half my life in and around that area). In fact, it does more than remind me – they feel the same. Main Street winds its way up a hill, intersected by a multitude of smaller streets. While paved concrete is the main choice for roads, you can still find the older paths covered in cobblestones and bricks.

Interestingly enough (I’m sure the Irish can appreciate this fact), Doylestown started in the mid-18th century as the spot where William Doyle opened his tavern along the intersection of roads connecting major population centers of the day (most importantly, Philadelphia). From there, the town has grown over time in spurts and sprints, most notably after the American Civil War ended.

And, just like in Dublin, there’s the nooks and crannies between buildings that make up the alleyways and back streets that a local can navigate like the back of his hand. And its in these side streets, where the cars can’t reach and you’ve got to rely on your feet to make your way, that the real fun is. Sure, you can pick the bars on the main roads if you want, but getting off the beaten path is half the adventure. Take a left instead of a right, and suddenly you’ll find yourself in a whole new area – completely different shops and pubs wills stretch out in front of you, another treasure trove of new experiences.

But you can’t really get lost, it seems. A few more blind turns will, somehow, bring you back to a pub, shop, or street you already know, and by then you’ll have your bearings. Just follow your feet – they know the way.

A Kettle and Two Reminders

The sun is shining early this afternoon as I stroll through the beautiful streets of Dublin, taking in the new culture that surrounds me.  Along the journey, gazing admirably at the city life, I stumble upon the pillared, powerful looking building across from the famous Trinity College: The Bank of Ireland.  It was unlike any bank I’d ever seen.  Yes, it was the pillars and the beautiful architecture that first caught my attention, but as I looked deeper, I’m drawn by the art fair occurring on its front porch.  Artists from all over Dublin packed a few of their pieces from their studios to join the fair in hopes of getting their name and work out for people to see and purchase.

As I approach the last artist’s station, my attention is grabbed by Colm De Ris and his beautiful pottery.  Everything was amazing from vases to large bowls.  These 100% handcrafted pieces surely made me fall in love.  Colm is an Irish potter who discovered his love and talent for the art.  Over the past few years his art has become popular throughout Ireland and even some other parts of Europe.  I think it was the beautiful colors that caught my attention.  His pieces are usually painted in greens, blues, and reds and have a traditional Irish appeal to them.

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I see a teakettle among the beautiful pieces and I think of my kettle-collecting grandmother back home.  I couldn’t resist purchasing it for her.  For a reasonable price, I got her the newest addition to her collection.  I was even tempted to buy a piece for myself!

As soon as I took myself away from Colm’s beautiful pottery, I begin to look at the event as a whole.  Being at the art fair blinded me of the fact that I was at a national bank.  This isn’t something I’d typically find back home in the states, an art fair at a bank.  When speaking with Colm, he told me that every so often the bank allows small business, usually for art and food, to come display their work.  I not only see that I’m at an art fair at a bank, but I’m able to look beyond that.  I went on to think about Dublin’s open and publically displayed love for the arts and small, striving businesses.  America has an obsession with big corporate businesses and it is beautifully refreshing for me to experience this love for the arts that Dublin displays.

I am sitting in my room right now, staring at the teakettle.  I’m reflecting on what this will mean to me in the future. Right now, I’m being reminded of my grandmother while I am miles away from her. And then I think, when I’m back home in America in a few weeks, when I look at it, what will I think of?  I know that every time I look at it I will think of my summer in Dublin.

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Slingin’ Drinks & Movin’ Feet

Finally recovered from jetlag and returning to a normal sleep schedule, it was the start to a new week in an exciting city. After a delicious meal with friends, we headed down crowded O’Connell Street, to a side road, up to a green door with the name O’Neill’s written in the window.

Following a pint of Smithwick’s, the girls and I heard the exciting, up beat, familiar sound of Irish music coming through the speakers. Upstairs, we found two young men playing the banjo and the acoustic guitar to songs like “Galway Girl” and “Belle of Belfast City.” We all sat at the bar, chatted some, and took in the music, the mixture of people, and the atmosphere of a real Irish pub.

Once I ordered my second beer, I was almost ready to call it a night and head home to get a good night’s rest. As I contemplated, the bartender who had been waiting on us jumped over the bar. Out of curiosity, I looked to see where he was going. Right in front of where the band was playing, he was ready to start dancing.

He started out with no music. The only sounds in my ears were his feet hitting the hardwood floor and his hands clapping out the rhythm. You have this idea in your head of what Ireland is, with the dancing, the music, and the people. I was seeing just that right in front of my eyes. The room watched in amazement as the bartender showed us the Irish dancing that one thinks of when you think of Ireland. As the music began to play, the bar, filled with tourists and locals, clapped along with the beat of the music and the pulse of his shoes thumping the floor.

During his dancing performance, the bartender grabbed an audience member by the hand to join him in his show. She joined the dance confidently as he led her through the steps of the Irish dance. The clapping and cheering only got louder as the performance continued along.

The impressive routine lasted for an unforgettable 5 minutes. Still clapping along, I stood up on a stool to capture the spirit of the performance while the whole pub erupted with excitement and smiles as the bartender continued his craft. The magnificence of this performance, for me, was the fact that it was truly unexpected and sincerely mind-blowing. I found my heart racing and my foot tapping the ground through the rest of the night.

After the bartender took a bow, the bar erupted with applause. He returned to the bar, to pouring drafts and making drinks as the onlookers returned to their conversations as if nothing out of the ordinary had just happened.  Dublin.

-Shannon Haugh

Beautified Walls

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Street art in Dublin is not something I thought held great significance to the Irish people, at least not compared to the street art in Philadelphia. Though Dublin is filled with diverse performances of music and theater, I came across only a few remnants of the visual arts created by street artists. But even then, these remnants were hidden within alleys and street corners. So what was the point?

Luckily, I found that point while walking down Rathmines Road during lunchtime. I was not particularly looking for anything, except for food. That was when I came across the “Bernard Shaw”, a small quaint restaurant, like many others, but splashed with a plethora of symbols, quirky characters, vibrant colors, and pop-art style convolution. The paintings were all integrated into the pub’s architecture, turning the latter into a giant canvas. I was almost about to step into the restaurant, but I began to fight a stingy game in my head—should I spend money for lunch at the Shaw or should I wait for the pubs at night? The pubs of course!

But walking away did not turn out to be such a bad idea, especially since I did not expect what lied in store when I decided to wander around the perimeter of the restaurant—a beautiful display of graffiti art that illuminated the surrounding walls.

These super-stylized pop art graffito had more than just an aesthetic quality. They were rough, grotesque, and hopelessly blunt. One artwork of three clowns with the words, “Here Today Gone Tomorrow” seemed to reflect the live-in-the-present attitude of the Irish towards their contemporary surrounding. The clowns, for one, were not even the happy kind. To me they resembled young rebels with war paint on their skin, standing up to the remnants of English authority still prevalent in this part of Dublin.

The best of the work was the graffiti on the alley walls that was interlaced into a beautiful collage. It appeared that people used the alleyway as a shortcut, unlike the graffiti-stained alleys in Philadelphia that were often avoided. But it was interesting to see casual middle-class men and women, even if a few, take a detour through this curving alley full of mesmerizing contemporary street art. They were like an art gallery of their own.

What I really liked about this set of graffiti art was the way it beautified the space rather than demeaned it. Though the Irish sentiment and political strife burns underneath the beauty, it is because of that that I believe this type of art is acceptable to the public. In fact, Dublin is supposedly filled with these types of street art as part of a project started in 2011 called Roadworks. To know the many levels of Irish culture is to view it through its art. If there are other such works throughout Dublin, then I plan to scout them out.

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A Major Step Down

Some childhood memories should remain suppressed. I knew coming to Ireland I ran the risk of flashbacks and the haunting Irish step dancing rehearsals and classes of my past. But here I am, two weeks in and just about fully adjusted to the culture, the people, and the music (but I honestly was always prepared for that aspect). Now my mind can no longer repress the practiced skills of Irish step dancing. These basic steps once forgotten, have flooded over me within a mere couple of days. Now I have often find myself dancing in the courtyard of our apartment complex, my classroom on Rathmines Street and in pubs beside natives of Dublin city. It’s the first time I’ve enjoyed the exhausting choreography of step dancing. So when my art beat partner, Shannon, suggested that we check out the Irish Step Dancing Museum here I was on board. Bubbling with anticipation at the idea of witnessing a great part of Irish history and culture, we made our way to the populated Grafton Street area.

One of the most beautiful days in Dublin thus far, Shannon and I made a day of exploring the city. From one end of the city to the other we arrived at the beautiful, old Powerscourt building, home of the Dance Museum. Visible half a block away, I was amazed at the size of the building, and could not wait to see what was in store for us. Yet, walking into this lovely building I was surprised to be greeted with the smell of homemade soaps and lotions as the Powerscourt is apparently home to many posh boutiques and cafes. Distracted by the unexpected beauty of it all, we were on a mission, to find the museum. After climbing several flights of steps, asking three different people for directions, and eyeing up some delicious treats, Shannon and I made it to the museum at last. And lets just say the thirteen year old and twenty-three year old versions of myself were incredibly disappointed. All we got was a single room in the back of the building. Although beautifully crafted costumes, old fashion footwear, photographs and historical events in Irish step dancing were present, these amazing artifacts looked forgotten in the space. Dublin’s acclaimed “only traditional Irish Step Dancing Museum” was a major let down for this Irish American dancer.

Although some aspects of the history and culture were on display, the room was just entirely too small to be able to do justice to the beauty of Irish step dancing. My childhood visions of coming to Ireland to see traditional step dancing in all its splendor, was destroyed by the reality of this museum. The Irish Step Dancing Museum failed to honor this beloved tradition and personally, I am disappointed in the Irish people to allow this atrocious insult to their culture and their country remain under-funded and under-appreciated. The poor Irish Step Dancing Museum was left to hide in the corner of the Powerscourt due to years of abuse and neglect.

-Tara McNulty

photo link  Irish Step Dance Museum

Emancipate Yourself

On my first full day in Dublin on a summer study abroad trip, I had an hour lunch break after my Travel Writing class. Feeling more wanderlust than hunger, I decided to use this time to explore the streets of lower Dublin. In my jet-lagged state I stumbled across a little restaurant called the Bernard Shaw. It was surrounded on all sides by alleyways adorned with fantastic street art and whimsical murals. In the center of these alleys, atop a rundown building, protruded neon lettering that spelled out “emancipate yourself.” I thought it was cool, snapped some photos, and moved on. Thinking about it later, that piece stood out to me more than the other artwork I had seen that day. The more I thought about it, the more interested I became. I decided to do some research to see if I could find anything about the artist. Not sure where to begin, I did a Google search for “emancipate yourself,” which, unsurprisingly, yielded only Bob Marley lyrics. I tacked on “Dublin” to my search and was pleasantly surprised to find exactly the information I wanted. I then embarked on a journey across the Internet to learn more about Irish history and street art.

I discovered that “Emancipate Yourself” was created by Dublin street artist Maser. The piece was originally housed in an art exhibition called Dublin Contemporary 2011, hung unimaginatively against a beige wall. After its installation in its present location in Fall 2012, the piece made a much bolder statement. Seeing the piece from the street level, the viewer sees these words from behind the iron bars of a tall fence, as though the message itself is in its own prison from which it yearns to be emancipated. The lettering towers powerfully over the viewer, giving a strong sense of authority.

One detail that I almost didn’t notice and didn’t immediately realize was part of this piece is the face of Daniel O’Connell, known as the Emancipator, to the right of the words. Maser has stated that this piece is a tribute to O’Connell, who emancipated Ireland from English rule. Knowing this, the piece takes on a whole new meaning as a political statement of anti-English sentiment in Ireland as well as a message of personal freedom.

Maser stated that his inspiration for this piece was a neon sign on O’Connell Street that read, “Why go bald.” This inspired Maser to think of the self-conscious teen he used to be and all of the people who are struggling to free themselves from their personal demons. After reading about this inspiration, I thought of the piece in relation to me personally, and my motivations for traveling to Dublin. It got me thinking about all the things I have emancipated myself from through travel and other means. With only two words, Maser managed to create a political statement, a message that resonates with viewers on a personal level, and a lesson in Irish history all wrapped up in one.

View photos of this piece here:

Emancipate Yourself

Legendary Loser for the Underdogs: Drew Russin

Andrew Russin

May 24th, 2013

How the fuck could you ever root for a juggernaut? Born in Philadelphia, I was taught to walk through a city far from it’s prime with chin held high, inherently rooting for sports teams that had a reputation as the nations biggest losers: it’s been ingrained in my blood to hate the consistent winner. I’m four thousand miles from Philly and I’ve never been more comfortable.

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In 1801, just seven years after the birth of the traveling Irish poet, Michael Moran, the kingdom of Ireland was annexed to Great Britain. Known locally as “Zozimus” and, “The Blind Bard of Liberty”, Moran inherited an underdog persona when childhood illness left him blind at the age of two. His parents sent him in the streets to hustle coins from the beat-down poor folk of his community. In exchange for change, he excitedly recited poems and songs, often condemning the British rule that suppressed his people. He did so with little respect for authority, and his irreverent wit made Moran a local legend.

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It’s hard to imagine a drunk blind beggar standing on the Essex Bridge, shouting to passerby’s, “Ye sons and daughters of Erin, Gather round poor Zozimus, yer friend; Listen boys, until yes hear, My charming song so dear”.

There’s an apparent push toward a cultural renaissance all over Dublin, a reawakening of Irish culture,  of Celtic pride, home-grown artists of low and high, but would the Dubliners of 2013 pull out an ear bud  to listen to the vagabond for a moment? I’ve seen fat piles of change in the resting hats of many street musicians, but no bold individual rapping away, essentially naked: flowing fragments of poetry erupting from his mind.

Prowling blogs pertaining to Dublin’s art scene have shown me that the art of spoken word lacks popularity with the young, vibrant army of college educated kids that are battling a recession to bring Dublin back to economic glory and cultural awareness. It seems as sensory overload is as apparent here as it is in Philly; Starbucks on every corner, Burger King next to McDonald’s, fast walkers, fast talkers, junkies jingling Insomnia coffee cups, automobiles ready to run you down if you hesitate; is there a haven left for the poet?

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Despite an apparent Westernization and consumerist craze, Dubliners still appreciate a dark twisted humor, reminiscent of their 800 year history as the underdog. Zozimus lies in Glasnevin’s Prospect Cemetery, long dead but not entirely forgotten. His epitaph must still resonate with those holding Dublin’s dark past with pride, “My burying place is of no concern to me, (what’s the point of vanity after death), In the O’connell circle let it be, as to my funeral, all pomp is vain (don’t give me grand burial or grave), Illustrious people does prefer it plain” (I was known, but I was drunk, poor, sad and blind; that’s how you should remember me after death).

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Citation

“Michael Moran, Zozimus.” Mypois.ei. N.p.. Web. 27 May 2013. <http://www.mypois.ie/mpoi.php?n=michael-moran-zozimus&i=159842>.

Deasy, Jamie. “New Book Recalls an old street poet of Dublin.” Dublinpeople.com. DublinPeople, 05 Mar 2012. Web. 27 May 2013. <http://www.dublinpeople.com/article.php?id=927>.

“I’m a Drinker With a Writing Problem”

As seventeen eager students boarded international flights to Dublin, Ireland, we all had one goal, to make this the best summer of our college career. We boarded the plane with every intention to sleep until we landed, but in my case I was to excited to even keep my eyes shut. Our plane ride went smoothly, and going through baggage claim, and passport checks was a no brainer. With less than four hours of sleep I was ready to take on Ireland

All seventeen of us dropped our bags in our assigned apartments, and we hit the ground running. We ran around Ireland fearless, and ready to take on the next six weeks. When the excitement settled I began to notice the little details about the city, especially the advertisements about theater. I stumbled upon theaters and performances, but none that sparked my interest. I decided not to take the easy way out and sit through a performance wishing I were somewhere else. So naturally I did what any college student would do, I Googled Dublin Theater. Again I was disappointed, so I decided to unpack my belongings and clear my mind.

As I organized my clothes I stumbled upon a “Discover Ireland” book. I remember getting into a petty argument with my mother, who demanded I leave the book home because, “I would never use it.” I flipped through the thick book highlighting such a small country and came across The Dublin Literary Pub Crawl. It may seem like another reason for a bunch of Irish lads, and tourist to get drunk, but that is far from accurate.

I sat patiently waiting for the pub-crawl to start with three other Temple University students at Duke Bar. As the lights dimed, two older men take the center and belt out a song, and a scene from one of Samuel Beckett’s collection.  The crowd crawled to the next stop, which was a small talk about Oscar Wilde and Trinity University. We continue to O’Neil’s Pub for a quick drink then move on with our actors. Next the actors enthusiastically act out a scene from the work of James Joyce that leaves the crowd and people walking on the street extremely impressed. We swing by another pub for a quick drink, and then were off to an alley for the final performance, a scene from one of Brendan Behan’s work. The final performance was one to remember, the crowd was left in stitches, and people from across the street could be heard cheering. To complete the tour, our actors gave us a quiz to see how much we remembered, and Temple University proudly claimed second place.

For my first theater experience in Dublin, I can confirm that the literary pub-crawl is worth the time. The actors were professional, and each performance was well rehearsed and presented with passion. This experience allowed me to move one-step closer into the theater world, and I’m more interested too see what Dublin theater has to offer.

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The Duke Bar, beginning of the pub crawl

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Trinity College, discussion about Oscar Wilde and his time spent at Trinity College

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O’Neils Pub, stopping for a quick drink