After successfully battling the gale force winds on the Cliffs of Moher, our group found a small alcove that protected us from the gusts, while providing a view of my new favorite scenery. I’d been away from home for 4 weeks and along with the home sickness that was starting to settle in, I was dwelling on a few negative aspects that had plagued the trip.
Ireland had offered me so many new and exciting experiences that I was afraid that the memory would be tarnished by concluding it with a bad mood. I sat there watching the waves burst against the cliffs, sending a mist into the air that drifted past my face and left a slight dew on my beer bottle. At this moment I closed my eyes and thought to myself, “Why did I come to Dublin?”
I feel that when people travel they expect things to be instantly amazing. For every trouble they have back home they assume that only greatness lies ahead when they are in a new place. Realistically, I’ve run into the same problems in Dublin that I might run into anywhere else. I’ve run into a few disgruntled servers, some drivers who like to announce their road rage and I haven’t gotten along with everyone I’m traveling with on every occasion.
I was 3000 miles away from home in a new culture and I was worrying about assignments and uncivil relations with neighbors whom I had no obligation to even talk to. I still missed home but I missed it for the same reasons that I’ll miss Dublin. When you go somewhere new you tend to leave pieces of yourself in the moments that made you feel alive. There’s the feeling of when I plop down on my bed, the sensation of holding my guitar in my hands and the view of the river from the path at Fairmount Park. These are the things that make me feel at home.
Dublin gave me the rare opportunity to experience my life with a clean slate and an opportunity to grow. I often become complacent with the scenery around me but the view down O’Connell St in the morning is a scene that I’ll miss when I leave. I remember how jet lagged I was on my first day in Dublin that I didn’t even notice the several hundred foot spire in front of me, capturing the sunlight and reflecting it on the landscape of historical architecture.
Toward the end of my visit I took a final look down O’Connell St. It was visually the same as day one, but it had a greater significance. Now the monumental spire of yesterday is the sculpture that no Irishman actually wanted. It’s a nice work of art but the Irish wanted something that represented them as a people. To many locals, it’s a pole in the middle of the road.
On your first day in the country you learn that the heart of the people lies in the pub. It’s where friends meet and families come together. Temple Bar is a nice spot to hang out if you’re visiting Dublin as a tourist but when you’re taking up a residence in the city for a few weeks you begin to learn about the real pub culture. My favorite had to be Gravediggers. Just outside of Prospect Cemetery is a local legend called John Kananagh’s. It received the nickname Gravediggers because the family that owns it used to dig the graves in the cemetery.
When standing in front of the pub there are two front doors. The right side will bring you to the lounge area but the back alley treasure lies just inside the left door. For every dream you might have had of an old Irish pub, Gravediggers delivers. From the bar to the floors, every plank has remained unchanged since the building was constructed over 200 years ago.
Two things made this my favorite place in Dublin. First, the staff is absolutely amazing. From the moment you walk in the door you feel like you just walked into a family event. You’re hearing stories, sharing jokes and getting angry at politics that you don’t even understand. The second thing comes from a famous quote that I’ve heard all over Dublin: “The Guinness tastes better here.” I feel shame pouring from my Irish blood when I say that I don’t like Guinness but when I got my pint in Gravediggers I swore that it was a completely different beer. It was smooth and gave a refreshing sensation in every sip. When I make my way back to Dublin I’ll be sure to stop by again.
Surprisingly, I really enjoyed my education in Dublin. Darren Kelly is an experienced Dubliner who toured us around the city and introduced us to some of the darker sides to the city. We learned about the rise and fall of the Celtic Tiger and the ways the people have grown through their various stages as a young country. Every walk we took through each neighborhood gave me a closer understanding of the events my ancestors would experience on a daily basis.
As I opened my eyes again a fresh gust of wind blew through my nostrils. The cliffs were still as beautiful as before but now I felt like a small weight had been lifted from my shoulders. I realized that on any given occasion I was letting myself get upset and I was the only one to blame. I then saw how much I loved Dublin. It’s a great city filled with great craic and even better people. From my roommates to the Italians living next door, the companionship made my experience memorable. I look forward to a day when I can return to Dublin. When that day comes, I hope that I’ll be able to share the moment with people who are half as amazing as the ones I’d met during this visit. Slainte!
-Joe Rega